Independence Day

As a child, there was one holiday I looked forward to more than all of the rest—the Fourth of July. I never exactly understood how parades with candy, funnel cakes, swimming pools, and fireworks related to our nation’s independence per se, but I knew that I loved it. So, this year, as the date of my favorite holiday approached, I could not help but feel a little homesick for our Independence Day and the friends, family, and festivities that accompany it.

In an effort to celebrate my favorite holiday and curb the inevitable longing for barbeque that I knew would accompany this day, I headed off for a weekend overnight in Gisenyi. Set on the banks of Lake Kivu 2 km from the border of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Gisenyi is a relatively quiet town famous primarily for its proximity to the African Great Rift Valley Lake. While lakefront in the town of Gisenyi is studded with high dollar resorts, the neighboring Rubona is home many lesser-known accommodations that are perfect for backpackers on a budget.

With a rented Rav-4 and five of us in tow we set off through the Volcanoes National Park towards the border of Rwanda and Lake Kivu. Upon arriving at our “budget” accommodations we were pleasantly surprised by the beautiful bungalows that overlooked the water and the palm trees that were blowing in the breeze. After a picturesque welcome we settled in to enjoy our day and night on the waterfront.

Lake Kivu is unique compared to other African bodies of water. Unlike most of the great lakes, Kivu actually offers a parasite-free swim for its visitors. Unfortunately, the protection from bilharzia and schistosomiasis comes at a cost. The lake sits atop a giant pocket of magma that releases volatile methane gas and unpredictable intervals. Though it sounds like a “green mine” for those interested in alternative fuel sources, the reality is these massive methane bubbles have the potential to suffocate people living in lakeside villages should one find its way to the surface without dispersing first.

Regardless of the unpredictability of the surrounding geology of Lake Kivu, it draws many visitors annually because it is the closest thing to the beach you can get in land-locked Rwanda. And admittedly, the expansive view onto the horizon mixed with the rustling of wind-blown palms gives you a sense of being on the shore despite your better judgment. So in appropriate beach-front fashion we settled in for a Saturday of relaxation and ate fresh fish as we watched the sunset over the lake and the bordering DRC. The evening was filled with the work songs of the local fishermen who in their linked dugout canoes head into the lake overnight to catch sambasa—the tiny fish who are one of the only inhabitants of the gaseous lake. Sitting fireside and watching the lanterns of the fishermen bob in the dark of night against the background of the DRC’s active volcano felt fitting for the eve of the Independence Days I know and love from home.

With one of the first pangs of homesickness I had felt in a long time on my mind, I headed off to bed in my beachside bungalow. Though I missed spending time with friends and family on this special holiday, the next morning I awoke to coffee, fresh fruit salad, and an veggie omelet that started to ease the pain. When eaten with the beautiful view from the terrace that accompanied my breakfast in bungalow I was resolved to have a wonderful day. Shortly after our breakfast we set off exploring in search of hot springs and festivities. After a short visit to the hot springs, we settled in with other muzungus at the Hotel Serena. The Serena is the high end hotel chain spotted throughout Africa and is usually high above my student budget. But in honor of the holiday, we splurged for their lunch buffet for a taste of home. Granted there was no barbeque but there were fish brouchettes, fresh salads, and a fourth of July favorite—watermelon. A tear came to my eye as I added salt to my watermelon despite the odd stares from my friends. I relished the flavor as I contemplated how in the world they got this fruit to the middle of Rwanda.

On the car ride home I couldn’t help but think the watermelon was a serendipitous surprise meant just for me to ease my homesickness and remind me of what it really means to be home for the holidays. Though I am half a world away from family and friends I still enjoyed the holiday because of all of the memories it holds. And as I talked about our trip and thought about the true meaning of Independence, I was reminded by our guard that this day was special for many people in Rwanda.

Interestingly, Rwandans also celebrate their Independence Day on the fourth of July. This day marks the date that President Kagame and the RPF took back Kigali from the Hutu militia effectively ending the genocide that resulted in the slaughter of hundreds of thousands of Tutsis. It is amazing that I could spend such a restful weekend in the apparent paradise of Gisenyi—the border city that was the start of the mass murders in 1994. Though I could not help feel a little selfish for feeling homesick and yearning for funnel cake and family on this fourth of July in the presence of those who have endured so much, I guess in a frivolous way that is what independence is truly about. It’s about the opportunity to be with your friends and family, to spend that time the way you see fit, and to have the freedom to do something new. Perhaps there were no fireworks this year, but watermelon in Rwanda—now that’s an Independence Day miracle.