Peace

Those of you who know me best realize that there is perhaps only one thing I love more than a good vacation, and that is planning a good vacation. My personality is suited for creating travel itineraries, reserving accommodations, and designing plans that maximize exposure to the sights of the places I visit. I get a lot of pleasure out of planning trips and I consider my passion for all things organizational one of my stronger assets. But again, those of you who know me best realize this can be a detriment as well. Often times, I spend so much time preparing the vacation that I forget to relax and enjoy the peaceful rest that should accompany a holiday.

Over the past few months in Rwanda I have had the opportunity to travel to many parts of the country. These weekend road trips have allowed me to learn a great deal about the topography and culture here in East Africa. One of the lessons that my road trip experiences have taught me is that Murphy’s law has an especially strong presence here in Rwanda—anything that can go wrong absolutely will. Despite the challenges that accompany traveling here, I always enjoy myself. So this weekend as we set out for Kibuye I resolved to enjoy a peaceful road trip, no matter what occurred.

Early Saturday we set out to Kibuye, another lakeside town further south of Gisenyi that offers a very different view of the same methane-filled Lake Kivu from prior trips. Rwanda is known for its excellent infrastructure and is touted by some to have the best roads in East Africa. The road to Kibuye is quite the engineering feat due in part to its recent completion. Kibuye had traditionally been a town dominated by Tutsis. In the pre-1994 Hutu-dominated government, the resources required to build a reliable road to the lakeside town were not deemed to be a good use of money by the ethnically-biased powers. Now, however, the road offers stunning views into the hillside patchworked with crops before peaking onto breathtaking views of Lake Kivu.

The interaction between the lake and the land is quite different than the beach-front town of Gisenyi. In Kibuye, the water intermingles with mountainous peninsulas of land and offers a different vantage point at every turn. Stopping for a traditional ex-pat lunch of brochettes and chips we found ourselves with a side of breathtaking views of our weekend destination. We quickly found accommodations at a local Presbyterian-run hotel and with that calming views of the lake and the impending sunset. An impromptu swim in the crystal-clear waters of the lake left us happy to settle in for cards and dinner—quite the peaceful start to our weekend away from the city.

The next morning I awoke before sunrise and set out on the one-way loop with my new roommate and colleague Yvonne to attend the local sunrise mass. We realized that the service would be primarily in Kinyarwanda, but the local church in Kibuye was a massacre site to more than 11,000 Tutsis and Tutsi supporters during the genocide, and stands in stark contrast to many of the other genocide sites. As opposed to holding the remains of the victims, the survivors in Kibuye chose to refurbish the church, replace its stained glass, and make it a living memorial to those who lost their lives within the sanctuary’s walls. Though Yvonne and I were eager for the experience of the service, we weren’t terribly disappointed when we arrived at six in the morning to realize that the Sunday service began at eight. As opposed to fretting about our spoiled plans, we took this opportunity to explore the church in peace and even climbed the campanile to take in sunrise views of Lake Kivu.

Deciding to take advantage of the early morning and the light, we began walking down the one-way loop road that winds throughout Kibuye to see the sights of the small but busy town. Chickens, goats, and a variety of birds greeted us along the way, but the highlight of our stroll was a chance to see the fishing boats come in from an evening of catching tilapia and sambasa on the lake.

We returned just in time for breakfast and our own boat ride to Amahoro Island. Amahoro means peace in Kinyarwanda and this island is a relaxing thirty-minute boat ride away from the shore. Aside from the stunning lake views, the island offers its visitors food, volleyball, and the chance to swim freely in what is one of the largest lakes, by volume, in the world. Shortly after arriving on the island I couldn’t resist hopping into the lake and swimming around the perimeter of Amahoro’s peaceful shores. The hour-long swim offered another perspective and vantage point of the mountains of Rwanda and the bordering DRC that punctuate the lakeside skyline. After drying off we relaxed on the beach and walked around the island before taking the boat back to the mainland.

Though we were sad to leave our lakeside destination we felt rested after our day of peace on the island of the same name. Of course we encountered a few bumps along the way, but overall the road trip was characterized by a relaxed attitude that is often a challenge for me to adopt. Part of our relaxation was undoubtedly due to the beautiful vistas and calming sounds of the lake lapping against the volcanic shoreline. But a part of me couldn’t help but think that this sense of peace came from a realization of the conflict and turmoil that characterizes Kibuye’s past, and the stark contrast of the calm that characterizes the city present day. Though no one will ever forget what happened in Kibuye in 1994, the present-day calm that permeates this scenic lakeside retreat is only rivaled by the inner peace it brings its visitors. For in Kibuye, even the most tightly wound individuals (namely myself) can find tranquility within the moment along its peaceful shores. Amahoro.

Independence Day

As a child, there was one holiday I looked forward to more than all of the rest—the Fourth of July. I never exactly understood how parades with candy, funnel cakes, swimming pools, and fireworks related to our nation’s independence per se, but I knew that I loved it. So, this year, as the date of my favorite holiday approached, I could not help but feel a little homesick for our Independence Day and the friends, family, and festivities that accompany it.

In an effort to celebrate my favorite holiday and curb the inevitable longing for barbeque that I knew would accompany this day, I headed off for a weekend overnight in Gisenyi. Set on the banks of Lake Kivu 2 km from the border of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Gisenyi is a relatively quiet town famous primarily for its proximity to the African Great Rift Valley Lake. While lakefront in the town of Gisenyi is studded with high dollar resorts, the neighboring Rubona is home many lesser-known accommodations that are perfect for backpackers on a budget.

With a rented Rav-4 and five of us in tow we set off through the Volcanoes National Park towards the border of Rwanda and Lake Kivu. Upon arriving at our “budget” accommodations we were pleasantly surprised by the beautiful bungalows that overlooked the water and the palm trees that were blowing in the breeze. After a picturesque welcome we settled in to enjoy our day and night on the waterfront.

Lake Kivu is unique compared to other African bodies of water. Unlike most of the great lakes, Kivu actually offers a parasite-free swim for its visitors. Unfortunately, the protection from bilharzia and schistosomiasis comes at a cost. The lake sits atop a giant pocket of magma that releases volatile methane gas and unpredictable intervals. Though it sounds like a “green mine” for those interested in alternative fuel sources, the reality is these massive methane bubbles have the potential to suffocate people living in lakeside villages should one find its way to the surface without dispersing first.

Regardless of the unpredictability of the surrounding geology of Lake Kivu, it draws many visitors annually because it is the closest thing to the beach you can get in land-locked Rwanda. And admittedly, the expansive view onto the horizon mixed with the rustling of wind-blown palms gives you a sense of being on the shore despite your better judgment. So in appropriate beach-front fashion we settled in for a Saturday of relaxation and ate fresh fish as we watched the sunset over the lake and the bordering DRC. The evening was filled with the work songs of the local fishermen who in their linked dugout canoes head into the lake overnight to catch sambasa—the tiny fish who are one of the only inhabitants of the gaseous lake. Sitting fireside and watching the lanterns of the fishermen bob in the dark of night against the background of the DRC’s active volcano felt fitting for the eve of the Independence Days I know and love from home.

With one of the first pangs of homesickness I had felt in a long time on my mind, I headed off to bed in my beachside bungalow. Though I missed spending time with friends and family on this special holiday, the next morning I awoke to coffee, fresh fruit salad, and an veggie omelet that started to ease the pain. When eaten with the beautiful view from the terrace that accompanied my breakfast in bungalow I was resolved to have a wonderful day. Shortly after our breakfast we set off exploring in search of hot springs and festivities. After a short visit to the hot springs, we settled in with other muzungus at the Hotel Serena. The Serena is the high end hotel chain spotted throughout Africa and is usually high above my student budget. But in honor of the holiday, we splurged for their lunch buffet for a taste of home. Granted there was no barbeque but there were fish brouchettes, fresh salads, and a fourth of July favorite—watermelon. A tear came to my eye as I added salt to my watermelon despite the odd stares from my friends. I relished the flavor as I contemplated how in the world they got this fruit to the middle of Rwanda.

On the car ride home I couldn’t help but think the watermelon was a serendipitous surprise meant just for me to ease my homesickness and remind me of what it really means to be home for the holidays. Though I am half a world away from family and friends I still enjoyed the holiday because of all of the memories it holds. And as I talked about our trip and thought about the true meaning of Independence, I was reminded by our guard that this day was special for many people in Rwanda.

Interestingly, Rwandans also celebrate their Independence Day on the fourth of July. This day marks the date that President Kagame and the RPF took back Kigali from the Hutu militia effectively ending the genocide that resulted in the slaughter of hundreds of thousands of Tutsis. It is amazing that I could spend such a restful weekend in the apparent paradise of Gisenyi—the border city that was the start of the mass murders in 1994. Though I could not help feel a little selfish for feeling homesick and yearning for funnel cake and family on this fourth of July in the presence of those who have endured so much, I guess in a frivolous way that is what independence is truly about. It’s about the opportunity to be with your friends and family, to spend that time the way you see fit, and to have the freedom to do something new. Perhaps there were no fireworks this year, but watermelon in Rwanda—now that’s an Independence Day miracle.